Versailles

France, 2013

When I did an internship in Paris, er, thirteen years ago, I knew no one; on the weekends, I'd often put a pin in the map and head wherever sounded interesting that day...the Rodin Museum, Chartres, and Versailles, a place I kept going back to.

It sounds counterintuitive, because the chateau itself is so jam packed with tour groups. But the grounds  beyond it are huge and completely idyllic. There are spots where you don't see another soul for an hour, and tons of Parisians head there to ride bikes, picnic, and just soak up the sun in a gorgeous setting.

We walked and walked and walked and are now home, freshly showered. Definitely one of my favorite days of our trip so far so it's bittersweet that tomorrow is our last full day.

Wanderings

France, 2013

I can't believe it's Thursday already. It's finally cooled off and we've had a lovely day wandering around the Marais. I did some research before we came (naturally), so we've headed off most mornings for breakfast and then made plans for the day over coffee and baked goods.

This morning began at Rose Bakery, where they were busy making the most delicious looking savory tarts for lunch. Tomatoes, goat cheese, and black olives, mushrooms and spinach...

Yesterday we went to the Musee D'Orsay and the Jardins du Luxembourg before naps and a picnic dinner on the Champ du Mars with (so it seemed) all of Paris and some friends.

It's hard to say exactly if Paris is baby friendly...I think so. Every neighborhood has it's little park and playground, and there are often policies at museums etc. that you can skip the line if you are with a baby. More than a few places have had high chairs, and the ones that haven't have been perfectly happy to have the three of us, even the posh Les Deux Magots and the swanky bar at the top of the Pompidou Center.

I guess I feel it's baby friendly in the same way that New York is. Most people imagine the city to be hell with little kids, but at the same time, babies thrive there too.

Birthdaversary

France, 2013

It's Will's birthday and our second wedding anniversary, so we had an action packed day in Paris with (iced!) coffee at Cafe Pinson, a trip to the zoo at the Jardin des Plantes, a long long walk and dinner at Les Bouquinistes.

I'm quite glad that Paris is relatively familiar territory, so it doesn't seem too odd to spend a day looking at flamingos rather than, say, combing through the Louvre. That said, we may do something a bit more culture-ish tomorrow. Plus, shopping for twee French baby wares.

Cue sleep.

Provence to Paris

France, 2013

Happily installed in Paris, where it's broiling hot. Missing iced coffee and air conditioning, but surviving (I kid!) regardless...

Eleven Months Old

Axel, 2013

And so much cheekiness...

Ten Months Old

Nine Months Old

Eight Months Old

Seven Months Old

Six Months Old

Five Months Old

Four Months Old

Three Months Old

Two Months Old

One Month Old

The Luberon

France, 2013

Today we left our friends in Mirmande and drove from Grignan to Gordes, in the Luberon. Doezens of gorgeous villages, lavender fields, and lots of sunshine.

Axelmoon

Axel, 2013

So far, Axel has been a delightful travel companion. He's such a fun age at the moment and pretty adaptable. The secret to our success (at home and away, really) seems to be to take the travel cot practically everywhere. He's had some great al fresco naps while we've read by the pool or had dinner with friends, and it saves us from feeling like we are up against the clock. He's been a little jet lagged, sleeping from around 9 or 10 'til 9 the next day, which has meant we can usually include him in whatever dinner plans we've had.

We've also done pretty well with a lack of toys...the kitchen has been gleefully deconstructed several times.

We had one semi-ratty evening when we somehow got ourselves into a four course meal that started around 8, but fortunately the waitress was happy to let us finish up on the terrace, where Axel could crawl around in relative peace.

France seems quite baby friendly so far. The changing rooms in the airport were the nicest I've ever seen; there's even a mother and baby room on the train. And even at quite civilized restaurants, we're never greeted with an eye roll. People often say "Beau bebe" and leave it at that.

Our days have been spent exploring hilltop villages and the cobbles and steep steps haven't always been stroller-conducive, but Will's been working on his upper body strength carrying the bambino around quite a bit.

Boules and a Barbecue

Mirmande, 2013

Axel has been loving eating fresh apricots from the trees, napping in his travel cot by the pool, and generally being his charming self. Today we explored Orange and Grignan and then went to a barbecue at our friends', complete with merguez, fresh tomatoes, and, naturally, many games of boules.

Blue Skies

Mirmande, 2013

Another absurdly lovely day here. Yesterday we walked to the top of the village and got a lovely view of the Rhone and the Ardeches beyond it. Today we had lunch in a little village called Cliousclat and stocked up at the hypermarche (where they sell "Brooklyn" sweatshirts, naturally).

Next stop, coffee by the pool.